Boss in My Hugo

Hugo by Hugo Boss Fall 2009 Men's: Menswear Fashion Collections on men.style.com: "In the notes for his first runway show as creative director of Hugo by Hugo Boss, Bruno Pieters indicated that he'd been channeling the spirit of German art history. What came to mind more immediately was German pop culture—or at least the American idea of it. In the parade of clothing that kicked things off, set to a thumping house version of Pachelbel's Canon in D, one could imagine Mike Myers' Dieter the Sprocket feeling right at home. The first several models' severely parted hair and all-black, architecturally inflected suiting—not to mention their tiny, circular-shaped sunglasses—added up to the perfect uniform for a twenty-first-century German modernist/nihilist (minus the dancing part).

The black passage was followed by a dizzying array of patterns; virtually every conceivable variation of black and white was represented. Black-on-white graph patterns were followed by the same effect in white on black, followed by a large-format herringbone trench, followed by variants that mixed and matched all forms of black and white to create a DPM effect that almost blurred the eyes. Elsewhere, a skillful play of proportion and old-fashioned craftsmanship were apparent; peppered throughout were highly desirable pieces, like charcoal pencil pants with a banded waist, or a black cashmere trench that virtually shined. And just when the two-tone palette started to get oppressive, out came a sharply cut camel overcoat over a red turtleneck, followed by a blazer version of same, both shocking in their simplicity, the eye of Pieters' visual storm.
— Josh Peskowitz"